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Materials:
two V8 sized cans, one soda can, a thumbtack, small scissors, and some
glue (super glue, epoxy, or JB Weld - not shown) |
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Step
1: Score the inner edge of the concavity at the bottom of a V8
can. You're not trying to cut through, only to create a
groove. After the first time around it'll be easier to guide the
knife. |
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Step
2: Now use the knife to cut the bottom of the can into
quarters. Stop cutting when you get to the place you scored in the
first step. |
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Step
3: Push the quarters into the can. Be careful of the sharp
edges. Bend the quarters back and forth until the metal starts to
tear along the score line. |
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Step
4: Remove the quarters from the bottom of the can. The metal
should tear cleanly along the score line. Discard the quarters. |
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Step
5: Cut the can about 3/4 of an inch from the bottom. This
piece will be referred to as the burner. |
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Step
6: Cut the top off the same V8 can. |
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Step
7: Now cut up the cylinder formed during the last step to end up
with an aluminum sheet like the one shown in the picture. This
piece will form the inner wall of the stove. |
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Step
8: Cut the second V8 can about 3 inches from the bottom.
This piece will form the fuel reservoir of the stove. |
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Step
9: Cut the bottom off the regular sized soda can. This piece
will be the priming cup. |
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Step
10: Trim the excess metal off the priming cup with the scissors. |
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Step
11: Trim the lower edge of the inner wall sheet to form a clean,
straight edge. I use the line on the can from the nutritional
information as a guide as shown in the picture. |
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Step
12: Trim the upper edge of the inner wall sheet to form a clean,
straight edge. I use the bold line in the nutritional information
box as a guide as shown in the picture. |
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Step
13: The very top of the "V" in V8 will line up if you
use the bold line in the nutritional information section in step 12 as
shown in the picture. This helps you to keep everything square. |
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Step
14: Roll the inner wall sheet into a tube and slide it into the
fuel reservoir piece. Make the diameter of the tube such that it
fits into the groove in the bottom of the fuel reservoir. The
diameter of the inner wall will be about 3/8" smaller than that of
the fuel reservoir. |
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Step
15: Cut little tabs to secure the size and shape of the inner wall
as shown in the picture. I use a tab on the top edge and a tab on
the bottom edge. |
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Step
16: Next cut small wedges out of the bottom of the inner
wall. Three or four wedges is plenty. The wedges allow fuel
to flow unimpeded to the space between the inner wall and the fuel
reservoir's wall. |
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Step
17: Cut the same sort of wedges into the burner. Stop right
at the edge where the metal starts to curve as shown in the picture. |
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Step
18: This is what the wedges look like. I use four wedges
staggered at 90 degrees. |
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Step
19: Assemble the stove by first putting the inner wall into the
fuel reservoir and then coaxing the burner into place. This can be
a pain in the neck. Take your time to avoid bending the cans out
of shape. Just get it started and gently start pushing it down. |
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Step
20: As you gently push the burner down into place, check carefully
at the top of the wedge cuts to make sure that there aren't any sharp
points that could cut the fuel reservoir. Use the file to smooth
out any sharp points as shown in the picture. |
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Step
21: Once you have everything ready, use your thumbs to guide the
inner wall into place and slide the burner all the way down. Once
it is in place trim the excess metal off the fuel reservoir. |
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Step
22: Use the thumbtack to poke jet holes into the side of the can
near the burner. Try to avoid poking holes through the inner
wall. |
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Step
23: Finally, use epoxy, JB Weld, or super glue to attach the
priming cup to the bottom of the stove as shown in the picture.
That's it!
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