Manual Buttonhole
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Set
the stitch length to be very close. On my machine it is halfway
between the "0" and "1". Set the width dial to
sew the right side of the buttonhole. I mark the width dial of my
machine with a piece of post-it note. Stop with the needle down in
the right side of the zigzag stitch (point A). |
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Raise
the pressure foot and pivot the fabric 180 degrees. Set the stitch
width dial to the smallest setting, lower the pressure foot, and
manually sew one stitch. This stitch will move the zigzag into
position to sew the bartack. |
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With
the needle down and the presser foot up, set the width dial to the
largest setting. Lower the presser foot and sew 7 bartack
stitches. Stop with the needle down in the right side (point B). |
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Raise
the presser foot and set the width dial to sew the second side of the
button hole. You may have marked this width with the piece of
post-it note earlier. Lower the presser foot and sew the second
leg of the buttonhole until the length is the same as the first
leg. Stop with the needle down in the right side (point C). |
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Raise
the presser foot and set the width dial to the widest setting.
Lower the presser foot and sew 7 stitches to sew the final bartack.
Raise the presser foot, remove the fabric, cut the thread, and tie the
loose ends. Use a seam ripper to cut the button hole
slot. |
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Notes |
It takes practice to be able to make a decent manual buttonhole. Sew a dozen practice ones before you try one on your project.
Some machines have all sorts of fancy functions to sew things like buttonholes. You really don't need all these extras. If your machine has forward, reverse, and zigzag you've got everything you need to make excellent homemade gear.
Buttonholes are an excellent way to make the hole that the draw cord goes through in stuff sacks and other gear projects. I prefer them to metal grommets.
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